Stobo Castle

Stobo Castle is a beautiful, early 1800s Grade A listed building in Peebleshire. We had driven past the entrance to its long driveway a number of times and out of curiosity I visited the website to take a look. For the average traveller it’s an expensive stay; many would consider it a luxury. In October 2014 we decided to book ourselves in, preparing to be wowed. The website markets the hotel as a health spa and on booking we were given two options: A ‘Revitalising Break’ which involved full use of the spa and all meals from dinner on arrival to lunch on departure, or a ‘Pure Spa Break’ which included the same spa and dining allowances plus two spa treatments. We opted for two nights from the first package, reasoning that we could add treatments should we wish. We booked into the Castle Lodge – which we were told was a 200 yard walk from the main building – and counted down the days until our visit.

As we pulled into Stobo Castle’s driveway, I actually held my breath. In the sun the building appeared magnificent. We parked outside the main entrance before popping inside to check in. The receptionist was extremely warm and welcoming, taking the time to show us inside, to point out the dining areas and drawing room and to give us a quick tour of the spa. She gave us a small map directing us to our accommodation and we eagerly jumped back into the car.

My heart sank when we arrived at Castle Lodge. It looked like a 1960s care home. Due to the amount we were paying (an eye-watering £238 per night), I reassured myself that the rooms themselves would impress. But when we got inside, my heart sank right through my boots. We had both stayed in bigger (and more aesthetically pleasing) Travelodge rooms, which is exactly what our accommodation resembled. We were aghast at the money we were wasting.

If only the whole stay had been this grand.
If only the whole stay had been this grand.
My heart sank when we pulled into the carpark for our accommodation.
My heart sank when we pulled into the carpark for our accommodation.
We were horrified to have spent £238 per night on this.
We were horrified to have spent £238 per night on this.
We were horrified to have spent £238 per night on this.
£238 a night… Yes, really.

The only redeeming feature of our accommodation was the Molton Brown toiletries in the small bathroom.

Walking back into the luxury of the main building – and spa – helped to piece together the shattered dream of our ‘perfect’ getaway just a little bit. There’s a large concourse area with comfortable seating, where you can enjoy a cocktail or smoothie from the cafe. The facilities were good, with a lovely big swimming pool and various other treats such as a hydrapool, sauna, steam room, tropical shower and outdoor hot tub. The atmosphere at Stobo Castle is – as you might expect – very relaxed. Guests spend the day in their dressing gowns and slippers and can move freely as such around the spa, into the drawing room and dining areas for breakfast and lunch. Staff were keen to point out the free papers and bowl of fruit in the drawing room. However, still reeling from the state (and cost) of our accommodation I was hesitant to regard anything in the place as ‘free’.

Talking of freebies, a little card in our room told us that our car would be washed during our stay. I did see a man with a pressure washer in the car park and a puddle next to the car suggested a water-based activity had occurred in the vicinity. It was unclear from the car’s cleanliness whether the ‘car wash’ had happened, though. It’s a lovely idea and we were very grateful for the suggestion. But if you visit Stobo Castle and receive a similar offer, don’t get your hopes up for high gloss and sparkles.

The highlight of the trip to Stobo Castle was the gorgeous Japanese Garden. A short walk down the hill from the main building, it’s a tranquil space which is absolute bliss to explore. I found this to be the real space for relaxation, thought and rejuvenation. I would highly recommend a visit; in my opinion if you visit Stobo Castle but miss this, you’re losing out on a valuable and memorable experience.

A redeeming feature and my favourite part of the trip.
A redeeming feature and my favourite part of the trip.

A redeeming feature and my favourite part of the trip.

A redeeming feature and my favourite part of the trip.

A redeeming feature and my favourite part of the trip.

There’s no need to reserve a table for dinner; it’s served between 6.30pm and 7.45pm and you turn up whenever suits. The first night we were shown into a very pink and very brightly lit dining room. I was impressed with the menu; I don’t eat red meat and I’m seven months pregnant, so I can be something of a fussy eater. The starter arrived within a couple of minutes of ordering, which I can only describe as a surprise. The rest of the courses arrived at a similar pace. The food was good and nobody wants to wait hours for a meal. But I was glad that we hadn’t chosen to eat there for a celebration or special event. There wasn’t any sense of ‘occasion’ and we felt as if we were on a production line of guests being brought in, served and shown out in as quick a succession as possible. We were offered coffee in the drawing room, which was a welcome relief. Finally we could breathe, let our food settle and talk about the whirlwind of food that had just hit us! On our way to the drawing room, we did stick our heads around the door of another dining room next door to ours. This was much more atmospheric with wood paneling, dim lighting and candles. The following evening we asked to sit in there instead and I would recommend anyone who’s dining at Stobo Castle as a treat or for a special occasion to do likewise.

With a heavy stomach – not just because of my pregnancy – I retired. Unfortunately, the mattress in our room was the most uncomfortable that either of us had ever encountered (and through travelling and work we’ve stayed in some dives). I certainly woke up feeling that I could do with a massage. I crawled to the bathroom, wincing at the 7.30am alarm. Like most other people, I get up early for work every weekday. But on the first morning of my holiday, it felt a little too early for comfort. If you value your lie ins and a leisurely start while on holiday, breakfast served from 8am – 9am is not ideal. Thank goodness the food didn’t disappoint. Perhaps one saving grace is the 12 noon check out time, which means you have a full morning to use the facilities before departing.

Unfortunately, the very friendly lady on the spa reception couldn’t book me in for the mother-to-be treatment I had hoped for. However, she was able to fit in a 25 minute back massage. I have been lucky enough to have a few different pregnancy back massages and this one felt rushed. And when I checked the clock after it had finished, I realised it really had been rushed, ending in just 18 minutes. Afterwards, I ordered a hot chocolate with cream and marshmallows from the cafe.

It arrived without its marshmallows, which I felt summed up the whole trip.

A disappointing (and potentially tear-inducing) 3/5.

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